Also check your heater hoses, which run from the engine (usually near the thermostat housing) into the firewall and back. The extra stress on the hose from the pipe collar and hose clamp means they typically crack and fail there first. Look first at where both the input and output radiator hoses attach to the engine and to the radiator. Once a hose gets hard, it cracks and hot water spurts out. At high temps, the plasticizers that make rubber squishy leach out at a faster rate. In a car, they are regularly exposed to temperatures around the 212-degree boiling point. Hoses: Rubber hoses would last 10 years if all they did were sit on a shelf. While they are under the car, have them give the drive-shaft U-joints and any other grease points a squirt of grease. A regular oil-change shop can handle the greasy job of changing manual transmission oil and the differential oil. Check your owner’s manual for their change intervals, as they are quite a bit longer than engine oil. Transmission and differential fluids: Did you forget about the other oil reservoirs in your car? Both your transmission and drive axle have their own lubricant supply.It will also cut friction losses in the engine and bump your fuel economy while creating savings that you’ll see magnified on a long drive. If you’re traveling in hot weather or pulling a trailer, a fully synthetic engine oil such as Mobil Super™ Synthetic can give you the extra protection against thermal breakdowns that you need. If you’ll be going long distances, consider opting for a synthetic motor oil. Nellie deserves better than a crankcase full of gunky old oil as she hauls you up the Loveland Pass. If you’re close to the manufacturer-recommended oil-change interval listed in your manual, then change it.
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